Karl-Heine canal in Plagwitz
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Famous for having been home to the likes of Bach, Wagner and Goethe, Leipzig has long been a hub for music, culture and the arts. The city also played an important role in history (see more in my post on the Museum in the Round Corner) and neighbourhoods like Plagwitz, Südvorstadt and Connewitz are helping put Leipzig on the map as a cool and alternative city break. It's also got some lovely vast green spaces and waterways perfect for walks (the picture above if of the Karl-Heine canal around Plagwitz). I think this comes in especially handy if you're wanting to enjoy some traditional hearty fare!
In Leipzig, there are a host of historic restaurants (and cafés) where you taste traditional cuisine from Saxony. After meeting up with a local couchsurfer, Naessi, we follow her friend's recommendation and head to Ratskeller in the city centre.
A castle tower, the New Town Hall and a restaurant in the cellar
Leipzig's New Town Hall (Neues Rathaus)
When you see it, 'new' is not a word that you would typically associate with the architecture. To be fair, it's only the New Town Hall because it's a few hundred years younger than the Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus), which was built in 1556. Interestingly, when you see both buildings (they're about 10 minutes walk away from each other), you can see that it would be easy to think the New Town Hall was the Old Town Hall and vice versa.
Leipzig's New Town Hall is still old at over a hundred years old but looks even older than it appears because the architects at the time had based the design on an older look. The tower that the New Town Hall features is actually what is left of Pleissenburg castle which was built in the 13th century. Pretty much as soon as the New Town Hall was inaugurated, the large cellar was used as a wine cellar and for hospitality events. Now a restaurant, it's one of the best places to go for a taste of Saxony in authentic surroundings.
Food fit for a knight
We go for an early dinner and once you've walked in, you feel a little like you've been transported to medieval Germany. It's a massive space made of seven seating areas - the largest of which seats up to 250 people (their smallest rooms seat up to 30 people and I think you can hire out various rooms for your events).
We're led to what I assume is the main dining area. After heading down the stairs from the street level entrance, there is a reception area with a gift shop where you can buy from a selection of traditional treats and as it's nearly Christmas, it's looking fabulous and festive. The main dining area (Großer Keller) is the next room you come across.
Ratskeller
Inside the main dining area
I love the low vaulted ceiling and large pillars. Despite it being such a large space (and empty - there are only a few tables occupied including ours but then it is 5.00pm), it feels quite cosy. The warm lighting helps too.
They have a selection of menus including buffet options, which are good for larger groups. There are also set menus as well as an a la carte menu, which is what we order from. They have menus in English too, which you might have to ask for.
As you'd expect from a traditional German restaurant, this place is big on meat and fish with goose, veal, and freshwater fish. They do, however, have options for vegetarians too. I think it's quite reasonable with mains for around €15.
Goose starter
We very much like the sound of one of the starters under the specials - a goose terrine type dish with freshly baked onion bread and a green salad with mango (not so sure how traditional mango is in Saxony fare but it was a nice sweet accompaniment to the whole thing).
Goose terrine on onion bread served with a leafy salad
It's a pretty big portion so I'm quite thankful we decided to share the starter. If you're on a budget, I'd recommend coming here and having this dish - it's like a fab open sandwich. The goose terrine (it's called rillets in German and I'm just calling it a terrine) is hidden by the greenery but it was impressively chunky.
Veal and fish mains
We didn't share our mains and this is mine… From their original Ratskeller options, Steak 'au four' of veal. Topped with a ragout fin and mountain cheese and served with buttered peas and duchess potatoes.
Steak au four (veal) with ragout fin
Rich, juicy, huge and really just very good. German food isn't generally something that I get excited about but on a cold day, food like this is hard to beat. Under that thick layer of cheese are mushrooms cooked in the 'Ragout Fin'. My first try at ragout fin, which I've never heard of before. If it's new to you too, it's basically a fine sauce (hence the name) made with lots of the stuff that chefs generally love like calf brain and bone marrow stewed in butter. Don't be put off though - it's really very tasty and despite it being quite a thin sauce, it's packed full of flavour.
Combined with the thick layer of cheese and buttered peas, you can see quite how rich this dish is. The slice of lemon was a nice touch to it. Come hungry and I'm confident you'll love it as much as I did. The potatoes were nicely cooked (and pretty) too.
My couchsurfer friend, Naessi, had the panfried fish fillet, which was served on green asparagus and mashed pumpkin (pumpkin was big on the menu too but that might be because of the season) and white wine foam.
Panfried zander on pumpkin mash, served with white wine foam
They have a good selection of local and international drinks. I suspect that having been a wine cellar, they'll have some great wine options. I had a local dark beer (called Ur-Krositzer), which was refreshing and went well with my veal.
Altogether, our starter, two mains and a couple of drinks came to €45. For those of you on more of a budget, they offer a changing three-course lunch menu for €8.88, which seems like great value! They promote this deal and tell you what the 'lunch menu of the day' is on their Facebook page.
By the way, if you're loving the sound of eating in medieval-like surroundings, as well as holding a range of beer and wine seminars, they hold a monthly Knights Brunch (hence the reference to food fit for a knight!)… It's an all you can eat buffet with tea, coffee and wine included for €20. You can also pay an extra €5 to go up the tower. I don't know if you can go up the tower at other times but it's worth asking about it if you're keen to check out the views.
Finding Ratskeller…
Ratskeller entrance
Ratskeller
Lottre Straße 1
04109 Leipzig
Germany
Tel: +49 341 123 4567
www.ratskeller-leipzig.de (in German)
www.facebook.com/ratskellerleipzig Ratskeller on Facebook
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 11.00am to 11.00pm and on Sunday from 11.00am to 3.30pm
Ratskeller is located in Leipzig's historical centre - less than 10 minutes walk from Markt square and Augustplatz so if you're already in the city centre, it's walking distance. It's hard to miss the building and its historic tower. The nearest tram station is Neues Rathaus.
If you're driving your Germany car hire to Leipzig and need to find a parking spot, you can find more information on car parks and street parking by going to: www.car-parking.eu/germany/leipzig